Instead of the usual wash, these beans are dried or fermented with their juicy fruit intact, infusing them with unique flavours. It feels like sipping a taste of nature in every cup
The chairperson of the Association of Women in Coffee, Ms Josephine Ndikwe recalls a recent fascinating and thrilling experience.
Says she: “When I visited Mbula Musau’s lab, she had a Colombian Natural. So, you have it in the morning, and suddenly, you feel this surge of energy… I was so invigorated after sipping that coffee, and the flavour was truly exhilarating.”
This was during a gathering of the women in the coffee value chain during the International Women’s Day, in March 2024.
Ms Ndikwe was setting the stage for the next speaker, Ms Musau , who was going to speak about the growing trend of coffee naturals in the global market.
“What is it about these naturals? There’s such a craze about them around the world,” she continued. “I met someone from Panama experimenting with naturals using yeast. It’s a frontier ripe for innovation, particularly appealing to the younger generation,” she concluded, as she ushered in Ms Mbula.
She was alluding to the growing interest in naturally processed coffees. This involves selecting quality ripe-red coffee cherries, which are then meticulously sorted and left to dry with the entire fruit intact. This process whether under the sun or in mechanical dryers, can span several weeks. Once fully dried, the outer skin, pulp, and parchment layers, are mechanically removed through hulling, unveiling the coveted beans.
The cornerstone of coffee production has been the meticulous washed process renowned for yielding the country’s signature high-quality coffees. However, within this tradition was the lesser-known natural processing.
Historically, natural coffees were often considered somewhat of a by-product, arising from sorted beans—those damaged, unripe, blemished, prematurely harvested, or dry-harvested from trees. Dubbed “mbunis“, these naturals typically fetched lower prices.
However, the tide is turning. There’s a surging demand for well-processed natural coffees, as Kenyan producers are now finding new markets where these coffees are fetching better prices.
Natural processing presents a viable solution for regions grapling with water scarcity due to climate change[/caption]
Moreover, there’s an intriguing shift in the definition of natural processing. A new trend is now emerging. It is known as “The Naturals,” where producers are experimenting with various methods before drying their coffee. Under market guidance, they’re exploring an array of techniques, including anaerobic fermentation, yeast and fruit infusion.
In the world of coffee experimentation, various methods are being explored. Some utilise yeast, while others opt for different approaches. For instance, after picking the cherries, some producers soak them for 24, 48, or even 72 hours. Some go further, incorporating additional elements, including alcohol, such as vodka, or fruits like guavas and limes, to infuse unique flavours into the coffee.
These experiments are often guided by buyers who provide specific instructions.
“For example, we were advised to soak our coffee berries for 72 hours. However, different buyers may have varying preferences, ranging from 24 to 48 hours,” Mbula says.
Even at the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (NCE), premium naturals are gaining recognition and commanding better prices than traditional mbunis. “Previously, only lower-quality Mbuni coffees were available at the auction, making it challenging to obtain high-quality naturally processed coffee. I am pleased to see a shift towards clean, naturally processed coffee being traded at the auction,” she adds.
“As a coffee trader since 2017, I would receive requests from buyers for naturally processed Kenyan coffees but obtaining them was challenging unless you owned a farm. Now, mbuni heavy (MH) and mbuni lights (ML) have been added to the grading list. This provides farmers and traders with more options and a clear incentive to enhance coffee quality.”
Natural processing also presents a viable solution for regions grappling with water scarcity due to climate change.
“You no longer need copious amounts of water to process your coffee. With naturals, we now have the flexibility to process coffee without fretting over water scarcity,” she explains.
Ms Josephine Ndikwe speaking to women in the coffee sector during the international womens day, 2024
While Kenya has traditionally favoured washed coffee, countries such as Yemen exclusively produce naturals due to water scarcity.
Ms Gloria Wamalwa Gummerus, a coffee farmer and exporter, says: “Natural method is just one step in coffee processing. Traditionally, you pick the cherries, pulp them, ferment, and dry them. This yields parchment.”
She spoke in an interview with Smart Farmer magazine.
“However, with naturals, cherry selection is crucial. There’s a misconception about naturals; people assume any dried coffee is natural, but that’s inaccurate. For naturals, only flawless cherries are selected. They must be perfectly ripe and blemish-free, with the right sugar content,” Ms Gummerus stresses.
Natural processed coffees have been performing well in competitions, indicating their potential for premium pricing. Kenya recently won a regional competition, indicating the opportunity for farmers to earn higher incomes through improved processing methods.
Naturals offer better margins compared to fully washed coffee. They often require less labour, resulting in favourable returns for farmers, Ms Mbula says.
Ms Jane Kamau, a member of Women North of the Rift, says: “However, with naturals, it’s crucial to have an order because if you don’t and take it to the millers, they typically process it as mbuni.”
Ms Mbula says that while experimenting with emerging processing methods, producers should not abandon the production of quality washed coffees if they possess the necessary resources.
“It’s essential to maintain the production of high-quality washed coffees alongside experimentation with new processing methods,” she advises.
